What to look for in a New Veterinary Practice…
So, You just got a new animal companion OR you’re moving and need to find a veterinarian. Most owners wonder how do they pick a good practice for their furry friend? First, call the practices in your (new) area and ask if you can talk to one of their vet techs or veterinarians about the practice and what they offer. Ask if they will give you a tour when it’s not busy. A good practice may not have tons of free time but they’re often happen to talk to you about what it offers for you and your pet. The practice, when time allows, should also be happy to show you around the facility and show off its equipment, treatment area and introduce you to its staff. You want a place that will take some extra time making you feel at home. A place that shouldn’t place a question mark in your head. Other things to ask: Also, while being reasonably priced and fitting your budget is important, places that offer gimmicks to get you in like unlimited free exams or emphasize how inexpensive they are, often come at a cost (pun intended). These are often high volume, low cost places (which may be needed) but they don’t always offer the highest level of care. OR places that use discount exam plans or free exam plans often go up in cost quickly and while the initial exam may be low cost, any diagnostics or sick pet visits often come with a very high price tag. If possible (and within reason) don’t let cost be your deciding factor and see what your friends and neighbors are paying for a full-service, high-quality practice. That will give you an idea what is appropriate for your area and the type of care you’re seeking.
Feline hyperthyroidism – it’s a cat thing
Cats unlike dogs as they age can develop elevated thyroid levels. This disease is called hyperthyroidism. In contrast, dogs typically develop and immune-mediated HYPO-thyroidism where they cannot make enough thyroid hormone. In cats, the cause is usually a benign thyroid tumor. In some rare instances (very small percent) the thyroid tumors are not benign. The tumor produces excess thyroid hormone which acts to speed up the heart, increase blood pressure, increase metabolism (ravenous appetite), faster gastro-intestinal transit time and increased urination. The symptoms cat owners typically see is a restless cat that vomits more than usual, an increased appetite, increased drinking and urination. The cat may be more hyperactive and vocal and grab food from the table that they never did before. On examination the hyperthyroid patient is often: Most cats with this disease are eights years and older. Based on what is reported at home and the physical exam, bloodwork is done to evaluate organ function and look at the thyroid production. Most middle aged and older cats don’t have a total T4 (a common feline thyroid measurement) between 1.2 and 2.6. Veterinary suspicion is increased with T4 levels over 3.0, especially if the symptoms fit. There may be other test needed to make the diagnosis is less obvious cases but once it it determined that a feline patient is hyperthyroid, we start with a medication called methimazole which blocks the step that adds iodine to the hormone synthesis. This way, the active hormone is reduced. There are many more things involved as we lower a patient’s thyroid production that have to be monitored but for the purpose of this article, we will focus on the thyroid. Management: Once an appropriate T4 level is established and the patient’s symptoms have resolved a decision can be made on how to manage the cat’s hyperthyroidism. Medication is one way, but there is a growing tumor even if benign. Another long-term solution is radioactive iodine Methimazole is the starting medication Radioactive iodine (I-131). Iodine needed for hormone synthesis. With radioactive iodine treatment the iodine has had a radioactive substance added to it. This is injected into the cat. The tumor portion of the thyroid, which is overactive, preferentially takes up the iodine so the majority goes directly to the site of the tumor. There the radioactive substance destroys the abnormal tissue, leaving the patient with hopefully normal thyroid tissue behind and eliminating the disease In some cases a second dose is needed to destroy the abnormal thyroid tumor. In other instances too much iodine is used and too much tissue is destroyed. In this latter case, we still have a stagnant level to work with and we can supplement the patient with thyroid hormone and have a good outcome and no widely variable fluctuations. This is still an appropriate outcome that is easy to manage. Best case scenario is the dose of radioactive iodine is just right and the patient no longer requires medication and the disease is gone. There is a lot more that can go along with unmanaged feline hyperthyroidism including hypertension, cardiac issues, kidney failure and more. As you cat is stabilized whether by medication or ultimately radioactive iodine, some monitoring will be needed to ensure we have the right level. The positive side of this illness, is it can be managed and your cat can have a happy normal life once under control. Talk to your veterinarian if you think your cat may be showing some of the symptoms discussed here.
Heartworm Disease in Dogs and Cats
Heartworms are an important parasite that infects the pulmonary (lung) vessels going into the heart. Ultimately, the parasites migrate and set up shop in these vessels and act almost like a clog to a pipe. When the heart pumps and tries to get blood to the body, the worms make this process harder and place a strain on the heart In severe cases with a high load of worms, the parasite can even fall into the heart creating a more severe problem. Additionally, the lungs can get very sensitive to the presence of this invader and become inflamed and cause a dry cough. Heartworms present slightly differently in cats versus dogs, but in both cases the worms live in the same place and are preventable using monthly heartworm prevention. Heartworm infection in cats: Because if a cat’s smaller size, felines usually have a single or 2-worm infection. The end result is standard testing for the parasite detection in dogs isn’t nearly as accurate in cats due to a much smaller presence. In cats, testing is available but the accuracy of detection is much lower even in infected (heartworm positive) individuals. 1. Testing: from blood / serum There are laboratory tests that look for both the antigen and the antibody. A positive result from either should be taken seriously. A negative result doesn’t always mean a cat is negative; it may just be too low of a load to be detected. 2. Radiographs (X-rays) 3. Treatment for felines Unlike dogs there isn’t a clear-cut way to kill heartworms. They tend to not last very long in the cat but they can have a dramatic impact to your cat’s life. Often the first signs of infection that you see are respiratory distress and death from a clot. In some instances though, if your cat is coughing, lives in a high prevalence area (like Texas or anywhere mosquitos thrive) and isn’t on prevention, your veterinarian may test you cat for heartworm disease and even if negative since detection is so challenging may try to treat or rather manage the infection Management of feline heartworm disease includes medicating with doxycycline, steroids like prednisolone if coughing or inflammation is present AND placing your cat companion on a monthly heartworm prevention so no new infection can occur. Heartworm infection in dogs: Because dogs often have a higher worm burden, testing for an infection is often easier and is common practice on an annual exam. If heartworms are present, there are outlined true treatment protocols that have high success rates of ridding your dog of the parasite. X-rays are often indicated to see how severe the infection is – has the heart changed size? Is there significant lung inflammation and more? After a month of the antibiotic doxycycline a 3-injection protocol is administered in a particular way. The 1st injection that kills adults is done 30 days prior to the next injection with the final a day later. The goal is to space out the killing of the parasite so the dog doesn’t have the full worm burden dying off all at once which can lead to severe lung inflammation and blood clots to the lungs (pulmonary thromboembolisms). Prevention: Whether we are talking about a cat or a dog, untreated heartworm disease can lead to right-sided heart failure, clots and death. What’s so heartbreaking in these cases is knowing that we can prevent heartworm disease with monthly readily available heartworm medications that can be prescribed and often dispensed from your family veterinarian. While many people believe that their pet is safe since he or she lives mostly indoors, that’s not really the case. The infection is transmitted by mosquitoes and these blood-thirsty buggers quickly fly into our homes through cracked windows or even a door that’s open for a few seconds. Heartworms are found throughout the United States and other countries. While they have a higher infection rate in wet, warm, humid places such as Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi and Florida, they are found everywhere, which is why dogs and cats should be on monthly prevention year round. Talk to your veterinarian to protect your animal companions. Monthly prevention can save your pet’s life and save you a significant amount of expense resulting from diagnostic, treatment / management protocols. Important links: https://www.heartwormsociety.org
The Weird and Wacky – Canine Leprosy, a skin condition
When we hear the word leprosy today, it sounds like an old disease where people that were infected were sent off to colonies. What we don’t realize is that dogs can contract leprosy called canine leproid granuloma. It’s a bacterial infection that comes from the soil and it may even be transmitted from dirt found containing the bacteria on insect feet and carried on to the skin of dogs. The bacteria that causes this in our canine friends in Mycobacterium, which is a tricky bacteria to grow in culture. While this infection is not too common, when it occurs it is alarming to see and often occurs and firm nodular growths on the flaps of the ear and sometimes on the head. Short-coated breeds and boxers seem most prone but any dog can become infected. Often in 2-3 months time, the nodules regress. Until then, they can proliferate and ulcerate. If the dog is uncomfortable, the open ulcerations are infected or in 3 months time, no regression is seen, antibiotic therapy is needed. Making the diagnosis: Appearance of firm circular nodules on the ear flaps and head helps clue your veterinarian in to what this might be but needle aspirates or biopsy is often required for a definitive diagnosis. To further identify mycobacterium, PCR (DNA amplification can be done on tissue or aspirate samples) Treatment: If nodules are few, they may regress on their own and then no treatment is needed. Also, if only a few, they can be surgically removed. However, if they continue to spread, don’t regress or cause ulceration and discomfort and infection to the patient then antibiotic therapy is needed. This is not a common disease but this author has diagnosed and treated two cases in the Houston area. It is an important diagnosis to keep in mind if lesions like this are seen in your dog. If you suspect your dog or cat has a skin problem, please call a veterinarian for an exam and direction of care. Together, your vet and you can help your four-legged friend live his or her happiest and healthiest life!
Growing Pains in Dogs – Bone Inflammation, Panosteitis
Young growing dogs can have an interesting affliction called panosteitis. This occurs with inflammation to the bones, typically the leg bones (also referred to as “long bones”). Panosteitis in dogs can be a very painful condition in dogs, usually large breed dogs, especially the German Shepherds, Goldens, Dobermans and Basset Hounds, but any breed can be affected. The typical dog is a young growing dog between the ages of 5 and 18 months. That said, German Shepherds have manifested this problem at over 2 years of age and some case reports show dogs as old as 5 years developing this condition. But typically, it is a condition of the younger than 2 year old dog. Diagnosis of panosteitis is relatively straight-forward as the first symptom noted is usually lameness of one or more legs. But other conditions that cause shifting leg lameness such as tick-borne diseases need to also be ruled out. Severity ranges from mild to so severe that the affected dog does not want to stand, becomes very lethargic, develops a fever and loses his/her appetite. Painful episodes last two to five weeks typically but recur, often changing legs, until the puppy outgrows the condition. Some individuals experience a recurrence around age 2 years, but again the symptoms simply regress as before. X-rays as well as pain on palpation of the long bones helps make the diagnosis. There is a slight predisposition of males over females, and while larger breeds are more usually affected, any breed potentially could develop this condition. In panosteitis, characteristic cloudiness in the bone marrow (see the arrows) cavities is visible on radiographs (x-rays). Radiographic signs lag 2-3 weeks behind the clinical onset of symptoms so if x-rays initially look normal, they can be repeated in a couple of weeks and the lesions will likely be more prominent. If there is still any question of the diagnosis in a given patient, a nuclear medicine scan called scintigraphy will definitively settle the question, but this is rarely necessary. What Causes Panosteitis? What causes all this to happen in the first place is unclear and open to speculation. In the past, the condition was thought to be caused by a viral infection but more recently there is the theory that the high protein and high calcium dog foods are to blame. The idea here is that protein accumulation in the bone marrow leads to swelling inside the bone. Because the bone is a rigid structure and cannot expand, pressure is exerted on the blood vessels leading to tissue death, inflammation, and the panosteitis phenomenon. This is still just theory. Since there is a breed predisposition for panosteitis (German shepherd dogs, Golden retrievers, Basset hounds, Doberman pinschers, and Labrador retrievers), this implies a genetic basis. The cause of panosteitis is still a matter of theory and investigation. No one really knows what causes it. Treatment As mentioned, the only treatment is pain relief until the dog outgrows the condition. For most dogs, this means one of the anti-inflammatory pain relievers made for dogs. If this is not enough, combinations of pain management can be used. Ultimately, over time, the condition resolves.
Holiday and Celebratory Fear in Pets
The holiday season is a time for parties, celebration, noises and outdoor festivities including fireworks. Dogs and cats react to people, parties and fireworks – some get very scared with loud noises and people while others aren’t affected. Some animal get so nervous with things like fireworks, parties or thunderstorms that they panic and may even try to jump through closed windows or bolt through doors to get away from the noise, people and lights. American pet advocacy groups point out that the number of escapees is so high that on holidays like July 4th and in some areas New Year’s Eve, are the busiest day of the year in shelters with that many pets getting lost, injured, and killed. You should know which clinics or emergency hospitals will be open during fireworks season, in case you need one. We recommend not leaving your pet home alone during fireworks events. That’s not always feasible, so think ahead before leaving them alone. Signs of anxiety can include pacing, trembling, panting, drooling, attention-seeking (vocalizing, pawing, nuzzling, and climbing on people), hiding, and bolting. Escape attempts tend to involve hiding behind furniture, and staying in a basement or bathroom. Because the source of the noise, celebration and family revelry is confusing, inside dogs may want to escape to the outside, and outside dogs may be frantic to get inside. Nervous pets tend to drink more water, so keep more available than usual. (And remember, these summer events usually mean hotter weather, and the likelihood of power problems, so extra water is already a good idea.) Bring outside pets inside, so they can’t bolt. Keep your cats securely inside, and if your dog needs a potty break during the fireworks, take him outside on a leash, even in a fenced yard. Make sure all your pets are wearing an ID tag or a collar that contains your phone number. Tags and collars can be lost, so a microchip is even more useful in helping you find your lost pet. Drug-Free Solutions What can you do to keep your nervous pet safe and calm? For many frightened pets, just staying in a familiar crate or in a “safe” room with a closed door is all that’s needed. Synthetic pheromone sprays such as Feliway for cats and Adaptil (formerly called D.A.P.) for dogs are available at pet stores. These sprays imitate the properties of the natural pheromones of the lactating female that gives kittens or puppies a sense of well-being. The plug-ins take 24 hours to build a high enough concentration in your home to be effective. So start 1-2 days before known stressors. An herbal relaxant called Composure comes in chews or liquid for dogs; the feline version is in chews. If you can plan ahead for these summer events, veterinary behaviorists often recommend behavior modification, classical counter conditioning, and teaching a desirable coping response. In behavior modification, controlling the intensity of the fireworks is necessary and often the most challenging part. While it often isn’t possible to expose a fearful dog to only “little fireworks,” controlling other factors can help. Distance from the fireworks can be less intimidating, as would be keeping the dog indoors. Music may disguise the bursts of noise; consider loud music with a regular beat. Classical counter conditioning can create a positive association with fireworks if the anxiety isn’t extreme. Give high-value food rewards (canned food or peanut butter), offer your pet his favorite toys or food puzzle toys, or have your pet practice his tricks with you. The goal is for him/her to learn that fireworks result in highly pleasant rewards. You can teach a desirable coping response. The appropriate response for a dog or cat facing something frightening is to retreat to a safe place until the frightening thing ends. Providing a safe retreat, such as a crate, a box a cat tree or structure with a covered space will give security and confidence, although selecting the location is up to the pet. Please remember that hiding is not a sign of a problem, if the pet quickly returns to a normal behavior when the fireworks are over. It is a way for your animal companion to cope! Medication It’s easier to prevent a fearful reaction than it is to reverse one. If your pet is nervous around loud, unexpected noises, a short-term sedative before the fireworks start may be just the ticket. Talk to your veterinarian ahead of time, so you can have something on hand to give your pet before the festivities begin. Several medications are used for anxiety, fireworks or thunderstorm phobias in dogs; There are also medications that work well in cats, however, do not use any of your own prescriptions because the dosage may be harmful. Some severely anxious pets may benefit from drugs (clomipramine, fluoxetine or trazodone) that increase the level of serotonin. Trazodone may start working within a few hours, but its effect varies, so you should test it with your dog before the fireworks season starts. Gabapentin sometimes combines with another sedative can be useful in both dogs and cats that are fearful Xanax can be very helpful for dogs and cats if given 1-2 hours before the scary stimuls. Cats also may benefit from drugs like Gabapentin, buprenorphine and drugs like mirtazipine – the latter by increasing serotonin along with appetite. Drugs like fluoxetine and clomipramine can take several weeks, if not more, to build up to an effective level, so they are not a spur-of-the-moment fix. You have many choices of how to help your pet cope with holiday stress. Talk to your veterinarian about what is best for your pet. Hopefully, everyone in the family will then be able enjoy the holiday!
Where to spay and neuter – Altering with Your Family Veterinarian OR Low-Cost, High-volume Clinics?
With costs for everything rising, many pet owners are face with a daunting question: where should you spay or neuter your companion dog or cat? Many private practices will have costs ranging from $600-$900 per pet depending on age and size of the animal whereas a high-volume neuter clinic may range from $50-$150. So, what’s the difference? Full-service Practice Charges Usually Include: High-Volume Clinic Cost Usually include: High volume may be an excellent choice if you have a young healthy animal and you are on a budget. If you have an older cat or dog or a pet with an underlying condition such as: then anesthesia for your pet will be safer at a full-service practice that is able to take more preventative measures. Additionally, some animals have other issues that need to be addressed like retained baby teeth that need to be removed or have tissue folds over their genitalia that traps dirt and should be surgically treated. There are also giant breed dogs that have a 33% chance of having a life threatening stomach bloat and torsion called gastric dilatation and volvulus (GDV) that can be pre-emptively treated by attaching their stomach to the inner abdominal wall during their spay or neuter. High-volume clinics are not set up for these things but a full-service veterinarian typically is. The other benefit of a full-service practice is that pre-anesthetic labwork can catch underlying issues and your pet will receive good pain coverage before and after the procedure as well as fluids There are pros and cons to both full-service and high-volume, low cost places. The main con to full-service is that it costs more but if you can afford it, it may be a safer and less stressful option for your pet. For folks on a budget that want the best for their pet, surgery at their family vet may be cost-prohibitive. If that’s the case, a low-cost option may be the best one for you and your furry friend. An in-between solution is to let your veterinarian do the pre-anesthetic labwork and provide pre- and post-operative pain medication for your pet and evaluate his or her health status prior to using a low-cost clinic Most veterinarians understand the financial incentives to use a low-cost facility and can help you balance that with the reality of what your pet needs for the best outcome. Talk with your family veterinarian to find the solution that is right for you and your animal companion.
Holiday Hazards for Pets
As the holidays descend upon us, risks for your companion animals increase and can reduce the season merriment. While you may get busy making holiday arrangements and planning parties, it is important to try to keep your pet’s eating and exercise habits as close to their normal routine as possible. Keeping your pets away from toxic treats is also essential as well as dangerous decorations. Be Careful with Seasonal Plants and Decorations Things to watch out for: Avoid Holiday Food Dangers Skip the Sweets: Most owners know that chocolate is bad for pets. But the artificial sweetener xylitol can also cause severe side effects. Pets may go to extraordinary lengths to put tasty things in their mouths and swallow. In addition, fatty foods (or regular people food) can cause intestinal upset as well as pancreatic inflammation, called pancreatitis. Keep pets away from your table. Fatty, spicy and no-no human foods, as well as bones, should not be fed to your furry friends. Pets can join the festivities in other fun ways that won’t lead to costly medical bills. Leave the Leftovers: Fatty, spicy and no-no human foods, as well as bones, should not be fed to your furry friends. Pets can join the festivities in other fun ways that won’t lead to costly medical bills. Careful with Cocktails: If your celebration includes adult holiday beverages, make sure unattended alcoholic drinks are placed where pets cannot get to them. If ingested, your pet could become weak, ill and may even go into a coma, possibly resulting in death from respiratory failure. Emergency treatment is needed! Pet-friendly stocking stuffers: Looking to stuff your pet’s stockings? Stick with chew toys that are basically indestructible, Kongs that can be stuffed with healthy foods or chew treats that are designed to be safely digestible. Long, stringy things are a feline’s dream, but the most risky toys for cats involve ribbon, yarn and loose little parts that can get stuck in the intestines, often necessitating surgery. Surprise kitty with a new ball that’s too big to swallow, a stuffed catnip toy or the interactive cat dancer. Lilies: A common pretty flower found in many holiday arrangements. This flower is highly toxic to cats and can cause life-threatening kidney failure if ingested Plan a Pet-Safe Holiday Gathering Always Be Prepared !!!! Your animal may become poisoned in spite of your best efforts to prevent it. You should keep telephone numbers for your veterinarian, a local emergency veterinary service, and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center 1-888-4ANI-HELP (1-888-426-4435, for a fee) in a convenient location. If you suspect that your pet has ingested something poisonous, seek medical attention immediately. ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center1-888-4ANI-HELP (for a fee)1-888-426-4435www.apcc.aspca.org ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, an operating division of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) is a unique, emergency hotline providing 24-hour-a-day, 7-day-a-week telephone assistance to veterinarians and pet owners. The Center’s hotline veterinarians can quickly answer questions about toxic substances found in our everyday surroundings that can be dangerous to animals. Veterinary professionals provide around-the-clock, on-site coverage of the Center. The phone number of the Center is 1-888-4ANI-HELP (1-888-426-4435) and the website is www.apcc.aspca.org.
Not Eating (or Anorexia) in Dogs and Cats
Appetite loss and reduction are important factors in many diseases and they must be recognized and addressed as quickly as possible. Nutrition and lack of nutrition is essential in preventing further issues. Acceptance of favorite foods often determines if a pet should be hospitalized or not. A couple of off days is generally not a big problem as long as the pet maintains hydration by his or herself or is given fluids by your family veterinarian. But ongoing issues of poor or no appetite can make matters worse and also suggest a primary ongoing health issue. Nutritional support not only helps your pet recover but also buys time to keep it stable while diagnosis and treatment are worked out. Your pet must be able to eat and drink in order to get well. The term anorexia simply means eating no food. When the veterinarian says the pet has anorexia, it does not mean the pet has a distorted body image; it means the pet is not eating. So how do we get a pet to eat? We will review some techniques here. Be sure to check with your veterinarian regarding the proper amount of food to feed and which foods are acceptable. Pets with poor appetite are sick, and if you wait until the appetite is completely gone it may make recovery harder. This is particularly true for cats. As the appetite fades, the pet must depend on stored fat for nutrients. When large amounts of fats are mobilized to meet energy demands, they must be processed by the liver before being used for calories. Cats are prone to developing a disorder called fatty liver disease or hepatic lipidosis. First Offer Canned Food If you think your pet’s appetite is poor but are offering only kibbled food, your first step is to get some smelly canned food and offer that. Most animals find canned diets far more tasty than dry foods and you may find that this step alone fully alleviates the problem. There is a misconception that canned food is somehow of poor nutritional quality. In fact, canned food and dry food are different mostly with regards to water content. Canned foods are about 70% water differ primarily in their water content and thus in texture. If you consider the food without water, the unprepared diet is basically a powdered meat mix similar to a flour. See if the pet will eat a canned food or mixture of dry and canned food. Additionally, one can add a flavored broth or cooked egg to try and encourage your pet to eat a kibbled diet. Second, Offer a Delicacy Foods that are generally regarded as delicacies among pets include: canned chicken, cooked egg, and canned tuna. With the exception of the recovery diets, treats are not nutritionally complete but can make a good jump starter for pets to get them eating over the first few days or a week. Long-term use as the sole food is not recommended. A pet who has not been eating may feel continued discomfort until eating begins again. Something tasty may be necessary to get the appetite re-started. To get your pet interested, rub a small amount on the teeth or spoon a little in the mouth so that the pet can get a taste. Don’t be surprised if he spits it out; we are just trying to get the taste of the food in his / her mouth. Hold the bowl up to the pet’s nose so that the aroma is inescapable. You may find that coaxing in this way gets the appetite started. A Note on Gourmet Cat Foods (Yes, Dogs Eat Them, too) Several “extra tasty” products available in the grocery store can be really helpful in tempting a pet with a poor appetite. Fancy Feast by Purina comes in numerous textures and flavors, each can containing approximately 100 calories. The diet is complete and balanced for cats and is often a good appetite jump starter. Temptations, by Mars Pet care, are especially well accepted treats made for cats. Because many cats will not eat anything else, they have been balanced to be nutritionally complete for cats and can be used as a cat’s sole diet if necessary. A Note on Starting Prescription Diets If the pet is supposed to eat a prescription diet but refuses, do not attempt to starve the pet into eating the prescription food. Many prescription diets are relatively bland and pets do not wish to eat them, particularly if they are used to eating large amounts of table scraps (always a bad practice) or a more flavorful regular food. Starving the pet will only make him sicker. Try a gradual change from the regular food to the new food over a week or so. If the pet simply will not accept the new food, be sure to let your veterinarian know this. There may be an alternative flavor to try; further, prescription diets are guaranteed by the manufacturer meaning you can get a full refund on the bag or case if the pet does not accept the food. Sometimes it is necessary to forgo the therapeutic aspect of the special diet just to get the pet to eat but your veterinarian will help you with these guidelines. Provide Privacy Be sure other pets at home do not bully or distract the sick pet. In a multi-pet home, it may be difficult for the sickly or elderly pet to eat without the younger pets taking his food. Many animals wish to eat at their leisure, particularly if they do not feel well. Consider giving your pet a private area and her own dish. Never feed multiple pets from the same bowl as one is sure to get the lion’s share of the food to the other’s disadvantage. Many pets like to eat overnight when no one is watching. Medical Assistance Appetite-stimulating medications are available. There are several products available that can create a sense of hunger. Capromorelin (brand name Entyce): This
The Importance of Vaccines and Heartworm Prevention in Companion Cats and Dogs
Just like people, there are basic vaccinations cats and dogs need throughput their lives to protect them from a host of diseases. There are also preventative medications that stop fatal infections such as heartworm disease. This article reviews the most important things to keep in mind to ensure your animal companion stays healthy. Many of these diseases are fatal or severely uncomfortable for your animal companion. Simply providing your pet with routine vaccinations can make a huge difference on their health and whether you prevent a fatal infectious disease. Cats core vaccinations: Cat non-core vaccines: Feline leukemia virus – this is a transmissible disease spread cat-to-cat. It can lead to much shorter survival times and can be prevented with the use of this vaccine Dog Core vaccinations: Dog non-core vaccinations: Prevention against heartworm, intestinal parasites and fleas: Whether indoors are outside, pets are vulnerable to Heartworm and flea infections. Heartworm is transmitted by mosquitoes. These insects can easily get into homes every time a door is open and bite/sting your pet anytime he/she encounters a mosquito. Once it develops, heartworms live in the vessels that go to the heart and can cause right-sided heart failure and death as well as significant lung inflammation. Heartworms can be tested for in dogs but is much harder to find in cats. In felines, sometimes the first symptom seen is respiratory issues and death. We can prevent heartworm infection easily with monthly oral or topical medication. Fleas can lead to itching, allergies, tapeworm infection, anemia and weight loss. This can also be prevented with a monthly oral or topical medication. In some preventions it is combined with the heartworm preventative. Many of these preventatives also contain certain anti-parasitics for intestinal parasites, providing an additional layer of protection. Take home – you can prevent fatal and serious diseases with regular vaccinations and prevention. Talk to your veterinarian about what’s best for your animal companion. You have the power to protect them!